Відео

thank you for explaining, I rent a truck to go camping once a year and I couldnt figure out what the L was for, this video really helped

Is it ok to just keep the truck on auto all the time? In summer, winter or any weather and situation?

I recently stumbled onto a video that studied the auto start stop function by way of engine oil analysis. The conclusion was that less wear particles were generated with auto start stop functional. With the function disabled the engine had higher idle time which means higher fuel dilution levels which is the main contributor to lower viscosity and higher wear levels. Interesting case study.

Can you imagine the number of starters ,batteries that tech will cost .

Luckily all of our 2019 and 2021 model 6.2 L trail bosses out here in the oil field has never had a problem and all of them are over 250,000 miles I think we've replaced a couple of alternators and one transmission out of four trucks so I'm not sure why our record is so good maybe because they are used every day for about 350 to 450 miles

I just had this happen to me this week on my 2010 Silverado with the 5.3 engine. Ugh!! Developed major ticking out of the blue. I've always used Mobil One synthetic with my oil changes. Figured it was the lifters and towed it to the dealer. They quoted me several thousand to replace just lifters. What a shocker right?? They also said it would be 12k if they replace the engine. Ahh, no. I had no idea about the AFM lifter problem with these engines until now. Since this motor has 148k and also a rear main seal leak I decided to just order a complete replacement long block with all updated components including a higher volume oil pump and no AFM stuff whatsoever. Engine with installation kit, 5yr warranty, and tax is 5200.00. Labor to install is 1800.00. I'll buy new injectors and ignition coils also but still way cheaper than a dealer. I love this truck ( a Z71). Definitely a hit to my savings accout but it will be as new again. I ve had no car payment for years and want to keep it that way. New rigs out there may look nice but who needs an 800 or 1000 dollar a month payment? No thanks.

I am not buying a new GM because of AFM issues.

WHAT IS THE OTHER CONNECTOR FOR.

Dropping the shifter into L and manually running it up to 5 (not 6) keeps the 6 speed models from dropping to 4cyl

In my 2018 Cruze I just drive in L and keep the selector in 6th. No stop/start.

Very good ,thanks so much for information

Great job guys… keep up the good work. I am a new GMC owner and I am learning a lot from you guys.

Send off tcm to hp tuners. Zero out allowed slip. Problem solved. Fluid changes are a band aid fix to the real issue.

The ESS is a pain in the ass. Just start the vehicle and push the button to disable it. I do this on my truck daily. Simple fix.

My truck has original motor with afm 2014 Silverado 183k miles and no failure yet

The problem is THE OIL. You HAVE to use Dexos oil because it has anti-foaming additives. Because the lifters are actuated using oil pressure as a hydraulic switch, any air bubbles in the oil make the hydraulic system compress air- fluid os not suppose to be able to compress in a hydraulic system. I have a 2013 with 220k miles. I have always changed MY OWN oil with a high quality Dexos like Castro or Mobile 1. Evertime I talk with someone who has experienced failure it has been a wealthy person who is to posh to change their own oil, to cheap to pay GM to do it, and almost always pay a quick lube shop to do it. Most quick lube ships use whatever oil and transmission fluid they can buy in bulk for the cheapest price with out regards for the varios formulas different designs require. Simple solution: Either change your own oil ON TIME using Dexos, over pay the Dealer who will always use the correct stuff that the manual says IS REQUIRED, or pay someone big money to perform an AFM delete. If you are financially fortunate enough to be able to afford a 6.2 Denali or Cadillac- don't pinch pennies on oil changes...

My 2017 silverado 1500 was working fine without issue until I took it in for normal servicing and the dealership said they went ahead and took care of the recall for me while I was there. It sounded great until shortly after that was done my truck started having this brake problem in low speeds primarily when trying to park. Side note, I tow a heavy trailer fairly regularly and it scared the crap out of me when all of the sudden I couldn't stop my truck and I hit another parked car. The dealership said it has nothing to do with what they did and it was solely my fault/problem. They were very quick to say for almost $2,000 they could fix the problem with my truck. I was so mad! I still get mad every time I pull into a parking lot to park my truck because I can't bring myself to pay that much money to them to fix what they caused. I already paid $2,200 to repair the car I hit when my brakes didn't work for the first time because I didn't know that what they did would cause my brakes to fail unexpectedly. It would be a second slap in the face to pay them to fix it. I should also mention I did not give them permission to do anything to my truck other than change the oil.

Thanks boss . I'm looking to purchase a s5

Ranks right up the with "safety" gas can nozzles.

What is the cutting tool being used at 6.45?

Yep! Thanks ... Works on the 2021 C8 Corvette too

I too hate auto stop!!! But this idiotic solution to achieve emissions & mileage requirements added thousands of dollars in cost to every vehicle. The better solution would have been to take the research & development money and use it for EV technology. S&S began in 2008 with hybrid vehicles, therefore development had to started in 2004 or earlier. EV technology gained production ready status in 2010s. Had auto makers committed to fleet conversion back then and take the strategy to prioritize midrange priced vehicles the matter of S&S dissatisfaction would mote in 2024. After seeing only a few minutes of struggle with remove 2 panels from the center console, I deemed the trouble to disable the hated S&S system not worth the effort and risk of introducing a rattle noise reminiscent of 70s vehicles. The situation is horrible and corrupt from greed.

even with extended warranties, your not safe. Ask any tech who works at a dealer and if they are honest, they will tell you how the ex warranty companies will hee haw the dealer around approving a repair. They will find any loophole they can to get out of paying to repair your vehicle. After all, they are in business to make money, not lose it. Everything they approve, they lose money. So your better off just taking that money you would spend on Ex warranty and saving it for when something breaks. If you have seen the complete opposite of what I'm saying, please enlighten me as to what ex warranty company you have, because they sure are not the norm if they approve everything that needs fixed.

if it's to loud, your too old. Sounds great.

@14:20 your wire that you have no idea what it is for, is for the dead key fob sensor so you can still start the truck. If your key fob is dead, you place it in the middle of the cup holder area.

I just rented one while my 2005 Corolla's in the shop. I like the way it handles, BUT ... all modern cars come without CD players, and I have dozens of CDs. I dislike listening to the yammer on radios. I like that it doesn't have a CVT. I wish that you had said more about the engine.

Well I have a 23 RST 5.3 and I've heard they have failures also. It's a concern but if you're willing to void the warranty then you can bypass or "delete" the AMF/DMF systems with tuners but obviously the choice is always on the owner because the warranty will be void. So far I've had no issue but I am considering a pulsar tuner to delete the fuel management system but also you can use it to change the speed limiter and other things too many to list actual. I've not done it yet but I am honestly thinking bout it

6:56 know what would have been better for GM? To not use this faulty system in the first place. Ford is no better, but one thing I learned from my years in business (self and as a worker): it is far cheaper to do something right the first time, even if it costs more, than to cheap out and pay through the nose later.

Vauxhall Mokka in the Uk 🇬🇧

Good job guys!

Did this mod. as soon as I bought my 2020 Silverado 5.3 a few years ago and I’m glad I did ! Stepson helped me install. This auto stop “feature” is one of the most asinine & irritating things that auto/truck manufacturers have mandated because of government bureaucratic nonsense forced on them then ultimately us.

Looks awesome! Could you share the instruction of reprogramming the spoiler please? Can't find it anywhere

I believe it is how a person drives these vechicles thats why some owners have no problems and others do. I still say these engines should be made to handle it. These engines were designed for fuel economy not for power.

The fuse box is not exclusive to each car. You can buy one and replace it, it requires no programming. Someone lied to you.

I did like your video, I went from a 2011 5.3 to a 2015 5.3, then a 2017 5.3, then a 2018 6.2 and now I have a 2018 6.2 all had AFM, the 2011 went 190,000, the 2015 went 235000, 2017 went 190000 miles. my current 6.2 has 82000 miles. My latest truck is a 221 3.0L. I am the lucky one I guess. I still have the first failure to experience. however due to other experiences I have heard about, I did buy warranty with the 2018 6.2, this was used and had 50K miles when I bought the truck. My 221 is the first gen 3.0 in an AT4 trim. my other trucks were Denalis. I NEVER tow, I run 93 octane in the 6.2 if it matters.

The origin of this input/output Porsche muffler "hack" began with the first of there construction type the '94 thru '98 Carrera 993 mufflers. .. During the present-day 993 production,, a fellow 993 enthusiast by the name Leland Pete would popularized the I/O hack. .. It became widely popular with N. American 993 owners.. About year '94 or '95 the DIY hack was widely known as the LPMM. .. The Leyland Pete muffler mod. .. That's the history of the I/O LPMM.. The DIY LPMM in our '98 C2S is still going strong since 1999. ..

My 2007 Yukon Denali 6.2 has 437,822 miles on it no problems quite But my 2016 Camaro SS started making lifter noise 😢with 80k miles

Wheeew....I probably need my own video for all I am about to say. LOL. So forgive me ahead of time. First can we all agree that most of the guys are not mechanics at the dealership, they are part changers (message me if you need me to explain). Took my truck in because when you step into the gas, you could hear the lifters and everything else ticking and rumbling under there (@51k mi.). Got to the dealership, and the intake guy says, "If there is no lights on, it will take us a while to trace down what's wrong and we are backed up now". LOL...smh...(you can't make this up). I go back a week later, they sent me out driving it with a new guy. Before we could get down the road that left the lot, he says, "you can turn around now, I heard enough to know where to look. Lifters, camshaft, valve and all that other stuff, were worn and had to be replaced. When they gave me my truck back, I noticed it was now vidbrating at 1200 rpm's. Took it back, they said they couldn't recreate it. Took it back again, The Master Tech said, Oh it's your tires...smh..I said, yall just told me the tires were good...he said, yeah, it's the roads around here making it vibrate....smh...I said, you mean to tell me that every road in this city knows to make my truck vibrate at 1200 rpm...smh....So then he says, Lets drive it together and see...When I point it out to him, he says, "Oh, thats the clutch in the torque converter. That is what it is supposed to do." SMH... I left that dealership because I didn't want to get in any trouble..lol...Took it back, the young tech says, there is a TSB issued, lets see if flushing trans fluid will help...Meanwhile the service guy just wants to check my warranty. It didn't work, but when I went back, they gave me a new service guy, who tried to handle me and blame it all on the AFM and that I just didn't notice it before. Smh....All of those answers they gave, were the same answers that were in the classaction law suit...like thye held training on what to tell the customer. The class action lwasuits sound good, but the last one got everyone $2000, but the chevy shake cost the customer way more. GM should have took the hit, back then instead continuing to sale these vehicles and not notify the public. it's sad. Now they are just trying to wait out my warranty. But I am dropping it off to them at 59, 990 🤣🤣😅

A turkey baster will work just fine for sucking out the diesel canister.

Nice review as always, keep uploading...

This was super helpful. Thanks for making this vid.

Perfect

Exhaust sounds perfect

If the voltage rating of the battery doesn't match the rating of the vac then the vac may not be running at 100% of its full capabilities. That looks like a dyson v8 which requires 21.6V and the ryobi batteries are 18v...so yea. Might be running at 90%?

I've had 5 lifter failures (always #7) in my 2008 GMC Sierra with an L76 engine. I paid for the first failure, GM paid for the next 3 failures as they failed within a year of the repair. Finally I swapped out the short block on my dime and it's been running fine ever since.

I avoided the issue with a manual transmission car!

Back seat smells like fish upon returning the loaner because the back seat was Cool

“COOL” story brugh

I am removing my front drivers side wheel. I loosened the lugnuts, however, is there another piece to loosen before my wheel will come off?

I was cleaning windows and a hummingbird flew into my great room. Modifying your technique, I grabbed a 6-foot ladder and one of my vintage bumper shoots and preformed a gentle guidance and release. With your outstanding video chalk up another hummingbird saved.